Kilometres Walked : 8

Thursday 8th June 2023

Giving our weary bones a rest today we had a lovely wander around the old area of Tirano and visited Palazzo Salis. Owned by the Counts S. Salis of Switzerland origin since it’s foundation. Once again we were wowed by the vaulted ceilings that are decorated with frescos and the beautiful old medieval furniture and of course the small but impressive Italian Garden.

We then enjoyed a meander through the old town admiring doorways, gardens and old stone buildings, some of our favourite things! What a beautiful place Tirano is.

Kilometres Walked : 19

Flights Climbed : 190

Wednesday 7th June, 2023

Watching the whispy clouds floating across the valley and swallowing up the snow capped mountains whilst savouring that first coffee of the day inspired us to walk right up into the middle of them. Heading straight up through the vineyards our first stop was Baruffini, one of the four hamlets of the Municipality of Tirano and located 800 metres above sea level. The immediate steep ascent up was beautiful but very hot once the sun broke through the clouds. Talk about getting our elevations up!

After a quick snack break at Baruffini we kept on to the next tiny hamlet call Piazzo at 940 m above sea level where we had lunch. Passing many massive Cherry Tree’s we were able to regularly snack on them along the way. Some of the tree’s must be at least one hundred years old, they are so big and they are literally everywhere. A great sugar boost for the constant ascent that we seemed to be on. Our original goal was to join onto another track from Baruffini and head back down to the other side of Tirano but we decided to keep going onto Sasso del Gallo along the old mule track that the Smugglers used back in the 60’s & 70’s to smuggle products like cigarettes, chocolate and beer across the border. The objective of the smuggling was to curb the number of locals who where choosing to emigrate by ensuring that the local economy could survive. The former barracks of the Financial Police still stands up there today (a fixer upper) and along the way up and back down we passed many old gun turrets and other ruined buildings.

What a beautiful part of the world. The scent of the pine trees as we traversed further into the alps reminded us of the old Norsca ads. Wildflowers were in abundance and full of bee’s and butterfly’s and yes today was our first time hiking in Europe that we have come across a snake. Not just one but three of them. They were quick to get our of our way but it still got the heart rate going, that’s for sure. Oh and yes one tick hitched a ride back with Jason. Another first!

With sore, stiff and tired bodies we slowly made our way back into Tirano this time through acres of Kiwi Fruit Vines. Wow they are all full of little furry baubles just waiting to ripen.🥝

Kilometres Walked : 12

Tuesday 6th June, 2023

Easing ourselves back into hiking we donned our boots and set off for a reasonably easy walk straight from the heart of town. Heading towards the train station and then across the Adda we followed a country road through acres and acres of apple orchids. Wow there seems to be more apples here than Stanthorpe! Our first stop was a tiny village called Colongna where we stopped for a short snack break before heading to the next tiny medieval village of Sernio where we stopped for lunch. Passing many more apple orchids and raspberries and blueberries and of course abandoned fabulous old stone houses that could definitely do with some renovation. Again flowers reign, roses, roses and so many beautiful roses in every colour. The intoxicating scent stopping me many times.

Making our way down to the Adda and crossing over we headed back to town along the path that runs parallel to it all the way. The water had that icy blue colour, so you know it is freezing but very beautiful.

Kilometres Walked : 11.7

Monday 5th June, 2023

With Jason feeling much more himself we went to explore the streets of Tirano. When we did some investigating into the town before leaving Oz we were under the impression it was quite a small place and we would be able to walk around it in an hour or so! Well weren’t we mistaken. We only managed a small portion of the town today and still managed to clock up nearly 12km’s. Again the tree lined streets just draw you in and create this relaxed feeling. The residents homes are just beautiful with very cared for and well maintained gardens that are full to the brim with flowers, fruit and vegetables. Winding our way through some back streets we found some very old medieval sections that blend perfectly with the more modern alpine style.

Serendipity stepped in on our passeggiata pomeridiana. Deciding to search for the Municipality Building on the other side of the Adda, so Jason could hopefully learn more about his family heritage on his Mum’s side, we set off after lunch. Casually arriving at the front of the building, no other than The Mayor Franco Spada steps out on the footpath who Jason recognise’s immediately. (They are distantly related) Boldly introducing himself we end up at the cafe on the corner having an espresso with him. What a lovely man indeed. Franco has kindly offered to help with finding out more about Jason’s lineage which has made him ecstaticly happy.

Kilometres Walked : Friday 5 km, Saturday 4 km, Sunday 8 km.

Sunday 4th June, 2023

Our last day in Varenna was nice and slow and relaxing with a few last meanders around the village. Inhaling the intoxicating fragrance of the many jasmine vines and admiring all the beautiful flowers. Geraniums, Roses and Hydrangeas seemed to be the favourite and I can clearly see why with lovely pops of colour on every corner, they definitely thrive there. We so enjoyed looking in at all the beautifully maintained gardens and terraces and exploring the cobblestone alleyways like a pair of children. Let’s go this way, no lets go that way! I can understand why it is the most popular place on Lake Como, the way the buildings tumble down on top of each other towards the lakes edge, the promenade walk that hugs the waterline and the lovely private gardens and the fabulous views all around of the surrounding mountains.

Saturday was travel day! Leaving Varenna behind we hopped on a train for Tirano. Tirano is just a stones throw from the Switzerland border and is famous for being the terminus for the Bernina Express Railway that heads straight into Switzerland. With a sick husband in bed (Not Covid),I did a little exploring on my own today. Big tall leafy trees line the streets and the architecture is totally different from anything we have seen yet on our travels. With a distinct alpine feel about the place most buildings have that lovely steep pitched roof and again lots of flowers in their immaculate and well loved gardens. Lots of shutters of course and lots of vegi gardens and fruit trees. The Adda river runs right through the middle of town which is the fourth longest river in Italy. I’m looking forward to exploring more this week. (Hopefully with hubbie in tow)

Everywhere you look the mountains rise high in the sky. It’s really very beautiful, especially first thing in the morning when the clouds sit amongst them. Snow still sits on the far peaks and just sparkles when the sun hits it. Once the sick boy is better the walking shoes will be back on and we’ll tackle a few of them.

Kilometres Walked : 9

Flights Climbed : 74

Thursday 1st June, 2023

Well who would have thought that having a super slow start to the day would pay off with perfect timing to see some amazing Birds of Prey today. Heading off about lunchtime to Castello Di Vezio, Varenna’s castle that we bypassed on Tuesday on the Wayfarer’s Trail, we soon got our elevations up. The Castle which has stood for more than a thousand years on the promontory overlooking Varenna was originally erected to defend and control the lake and surrounding villages by the Lombard Queen Teodolinda. Whilst there are only ruins left now the views from the top are quite spectacular.

After enjoying the magnificent views and wandering around the ruins we were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time. Whilst earlier we may have been silently cursing the group of school children ruining the serenity, an hour later we were thanking them as one of the Castle staff and Raptor handlers brought out 3 of their Birds of Prey to show and educate them.

There are four Birds of Prey at the Castle. Parsifal and Linda the two Harris Buzzards. Breva a black kite which we forgot to take photos of as we were just so mesmerised watching her fly and Arthur a European eagle owl who unfortunately doesn’t come out of the cage due to his early life experience with his previous owner. I can tell you though he is just beautiful with the biggest brightest eyes and apparently a 180cm wing span. We felt very privileged to randomly be there on a day when a school group was booked in with the Falconry. They were so beautiful to watch soaring high in the sky and ever so majestic.

Kilometres Walked : 10

Wednesday 31st May, 2023

The Italians really know how to build Villa’s and create magical gardens surrounding them. Pencil Pines, Conifers, Sweet smelling Roses, Palms, Hydrangeas (another flower I have a new appreciation for), Trailing Jasmine Vines, Aromatic Herbs, Fountains, Marble Statues, Grottos, Pebble Paths, Marble Seating, Mosaic Features, Concrete Balustrading, and wouldn’t you know it the good old Bright Red Calistemon. Yes we have seen quite a few here and they are thriving with the brightest red blooms buzzing with bee’s. Villa Monastero right here in Varenna and right on the waterfront is another example of Italian Style and Creativity. With 2 kilometres of waterfront gardens to completely enrapture us and a Beautiful Villa in the middle we easily spent 4 hours leisurely wandering around in awe.

Again we didn’t manage to get a full blue sky but it did start to clear up and we didn’t have any rain. The Interior of the Villa was just beautiful with as usual copious amounts of marble, terrazzo floors, intricately carved timber furnishings, vaulted ceilings, stunning views, a magical bathroom, secret doors and the most stunning sweeping staircase in you guessed it, Marble!

Gaining even more inspiration for home we finished off the day catching up with another lovely Brisbane couple who we randomly met whilst waiting at Milan Train Station. After a brief conversation we not only realised we were all from Brisbane, but we also have Tenterfield connections and we were all heading to Lake Como! How small is the world.

Kilometres Walked : 14

Flights Climbed : 73

Tuesday 30th May, 2023

We started our walk along the Wayfarer’s path just outside our apartment heading up towards the Castle first. Talk about getting our elevations up straight away. The Wayfarer’s Path runs between Varenna and Bellano along an old mule track that is part of a longer trail that goes back to Roman times and used to be the only footpath connecting the villages on the eastern shore of Lake Como. Our section was about 10km long with quite a lot of elevation but very lush and beautiful. Winding our way up and down old stone pebbled paths and through a vibrant green canopy then opening up to an amazing view of the Lake in different spots. A few hours later we arrived at Bellano, another town on the shores of Lake Como and found another little local cafe (at the train station) and had another delicious lunch and a few laughs with the owner.

After lunch we visited the Orrido Di Bellano which is a natural gorge created 15 million years ago by the erosion of the Pioverna torrent and the Adda Glacier which over the centuries have shaped the rock into gigantic potholes, gloomy ravines and caverns. There has been a system of walkways anchored on the high walls allowing visitors to enjoy this phenomenon. As always Jason was in his element discovering more hydroelectric systems and seeing the natural environment and how water can shape the earth.

It was such a great day. Even though it was hazy and a little overcast the views were still beautiful and the gorge was quite amazing to see. After stocking up on groceries at the bigger supermarket we caught the little mini bus back to Varenna and headed straight to the terrace for a cold beer. 🍺

Kilometres walked : Saturday 5.5 km, Sunday 12.6 km, Monday 16 km.

Floors Climbed : 59

Monday 29th May, 2023.

Well after stopping for a quick 2 nights in Milan we can confirm that we will never return. It was very dirty and quite frankly just boring and very dark and dull. Anyway moving on we are now at Varenna on the shores of Lake Como and what a delightful little place it is. After a landslide along the train line just before Fiemelatte a week ago which is just before Varenna we had to jump off the train at Lierna and catch a boat to Varenna which I have to say was a really lovely way to arrive.

We were very pleased with our choice to stay here. With all the colourful buildings and the character and all the greenery its just so pretty. After an early check in we found a fabulous locals cafe to have lunch (away from the tourists) and then went off exploring (yep you guessed it) the cobblestone streets. Opting to avoid the lunchtime crowds along the waterfront we headed out of town towards Fiumelatte where the White Milk Water Stream is. Being among the shortest water courses in Italy at only 250m from its source roaring down the valley into the lake. With an average gradient of 36 degrees its fast moving waters are foamy giving it a milky white appearance hence the nick name. It is also seasonal and usually appears at the end of March and disappears by October. We felt very privileged to see this, Jason was super excited by the fact that is just basically a aquifer which’s comes straight out of the mountain side. The noise it created was absolutely phenomenal and the temperature dropped dramatically as you neared it and then even more once you were standing beside it.

Heading back into Varenna and noticing the crowds had diminished substantially we wandered around a little more. It still amazes me how these places are built right on the edge of the water and then keep going straight up the hills. All the beautiful gardens have been perfectly terraced and cute narrow stone staircases lead you through to the higher sections. No space is wasted which we just love.

Varenna. Wow what a beautiful place! A sense of calm and serenity washes over you once the crowds thin out. Watching the sun set behind the mountains and the soft shimmering light sparkle across the lake reminds you that life is wonderful.

Kilometres Walked : 10km

Friday 26th May, 2023

We couldn’t have asked for better weather for our last day exploring the French Riviera. With a perfect blue sky we caught the train again to Carnoles and walked back to Menton. It wasn’t a huge walk but a beautiful one with plenty of opportunities for a final swim in the sea before we head inland again tomorrow. And what an unexpected pleasant surprise Menton turned out to be. Nick named the pearl of France we could easily see why. With colourful shuttered villas, terracotta roofs, palm trees, narrow alleyways and lovely little beaches we completely fell in love with the place. We wandered aimlessly around taking in all of our surroundings and just soaking up the natural splendour. What a spot to end this leg of our journey at.

And just to top the day off there was some sort of swanky lunch happening at the Cathedral which apparently you could only receive an invite if you drove a Ferrari! I’ve never seen a line up like it. Everyone was ogling them and taking photos and videos including us.

We have just loved the French Riviera. The colours, the beautiful sea, the coastal walks, the food, the shutters, the gelato, the style and the people watching. Au revoir!!