Kilometres Walked : 10

Wednesday 31st May, 2023

The Italians really know how to build Villa’s and create magical gardens surrounding them. Pencil Pines, Conifers, Sweet smelling Roses, Palms, Hydrangeas (another flower I have a new appreciation for), Trailing Jasmine Vines, Aromatic Herbs, Fountains, Marble Statues, Grottos, Pebble Paths, Marble Seating, Mosaic Features, Concrete Balustrading, and wouldn’t you know it the good old Bright Red Calistemon. Yes we have seen quite a few here and they are thriving with the brightest red blooms buzzing with bee’s. Villa Monastero right here in Varenna and right on the waterfront is another example of Italian Style and Creativity. With 2 kilometres of waterfront gardens to completely enrapture us and a Beautiful Villa in the middle we easily spent 4 hours leisurely wandering around in awe.

Again we didn’t manage to get a full blue sky but it did start to clear up and we didn’t have any rain. The Interior of the Villa was just beautiful with as usual copious amounts of marble, terrazzo floors, intricately carved timber furnishings, vaulted ceilings, stunning views, a magical bathroom, secret doors and the most stunning sweeping staircase in you guessed it, Marble!

Gaining even more inspiration for home we finished off the day catching up with another lovely Brisbane couple who we randomly met whilst waiting at Milan Train Station. After a brief conversation we not only realised we were all from Brisbane, but we also have Tenterfield connections and we were all heading to Lake Como! How small is the world.

Kilometres Walked : 14

Flights Climbed : 73

Tuesday 30th May, 2023

We started our walk along the Wayfarer’s path just outside our apartment heading up towards the Castle first. Talk about getting our elevations up straight away. The Wayfarer’s Path runs between Varenna and Bellano along an old mule track that is part of a longer trail that goes back to Roman times and used to be the only footpath connecting the villages on the eastern shore of Lake Como. Our section was about 10km long with quite a lot of elevation but very lush and beautiful. Winding our way up and down old stone pebbled paths and through a vibrant green canopy then opening up to an amazing view of the Lake in different spots. A few hours later we arrived at Bellano, another town on the shores of Lake Como and found another little local cafe (at the train station) and had another delicious lunch and a few laughs with the owner.

After lunch we visited the Orrido Di Bellano which is a natural gorge created 15 million years ago by the erosion of the Pioverna torrent and the Adda Glacier which over the centuries have shaped the rock into gigantic potholes, gloomy ravines and caverns. There has been a system of walkways anchored on the high walls allowing visitors to enjoy this phenomenon. As always Jason was in his element discovering more hydroelectric systems and seeing the natural environment and how water can shape the earth.

It was such a great day. Even though it was hazy and a little overcast the views were still beautiful and the gorge was quite amazing to see. After stocking up on groceries at the bigger supermarket we caught the little mini bus back to Varenna and headed straight to the terrace for a cold beer. 🍺

Kilometres walked : Saturday 5.5 km, Sunday 12.6 km, Monday 16 km.

Floors Climbed : 59

Monday 29th May, 2023.

Well after stopping for a quick 2 nights in Milan we can confirm that we will never return. It was very dirty and quite frankly just boring and very dark and dull. Anyway moving on we are now at Varenna on the shores of Lake Como and what a delightful little place it is. After a landslide along the train line just before Fiemelatte a week ago which is just before Varenna we had to jump off the train at Lierna and catch a boat to Varenna which I have to say was a really lovely way to arrive.

We were very pleased with our choice to stay here. With all the colourful buildings and the character and all the greenery its just so pretty. After an early check in we found a fabulous locals cafe to have lunch (away from the tourists) and then went off exploring (yep you guessed it) the cobblestone streets. Opting to avoid the lunchtime crowds along the waterfront we headed out of town towards Fiumelatte where the White Milk Water Stream is. Being among the shortest water courses in Italy at only 250m from its source roaring down the valley into the lake. With an average gradient of 36 degrees its fast moving waters are foamy giving it a milky white appearance hence the nick name. It is also seasonal and usually appears at the end of March and disappears by October. We felt very privileged to see this, Jason was super excited by the fact that is just basically a aquifer which’s comes straight out of the mountain side. The noise it created was absolutely phenomenal and the temperature dropped dramatically as you neared it and then even more once you were standing beside it.

Heading back into Varenna and noticing the crowds had diminished substantially we wandered around a little more. It still amazes me how these places are built right on the edge of the water and then keep going straight up the hills. All the beautiful gardens have been perfectly terraced and cute narrow stone staircases lead you through to the higher sections. No space is wasted which we just love.

Varenna. Wow what a beautiful place! A sense of calm and serenity washes over you once the crowds thin out. Watching the sun set behind the mountains and the soft shimmering light sparkle across the lake reminds you that life is wonderful.

Kilometres Walked : 10km

Friday 26th May, 2023

We couldn’t have asked for better weather for our last day exploring the French Riviera. With a perfect blue sky we caught the train again to Carnoles and walked back to Menton. It wasn’t a huge walk but a beautiful one with plenty of opportunities for a final swim in the sea before we head inland again tomorrow. And what an unexpected pleasant surprise Menton turned out to be. Nick named the pearl of France we could easily see why. With colourful shuttered villas, terracotta roofs, palm trees, narrow alleyways and lovely little beaches we completely fell in love with the place. We wandered aimlessly around taking in all of our surroundings and just soaking up the natural splendour. What a spot to end this leg of our journey at.

And just to top the day off there was some sort of swanky lunch happening at the Cathedral which apparently you could only receive an invite if you drove a Ferrari! I’ve never seen a line up like it. Everyone was ogling them and taking photos and videos including us.

We have just loved the French Riviera. The colours, the beautiful sea, the coastal walks, the food, the shutters, the gelato, the style and the people watching. Au revoir!!

Kilometres Walked : Wednesday – 13.2, Thursday – 16.5

Flights Climbed : 60

Thursday 25th May, 2023.

Back on the coast for a few days we have based ourselves at Ventimilia so we can explore the French Riviera a little more. Today we caught the train across the border to Carnoles, one of the beaches of the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin settlement. It was here we joined the coastal path that runs between Menton and Monaco. The day did start out a little overcast but dramatically improved after lunch. Following the coastal track for several kilometres we happily walked along with luxurious villas on one side and the beautiful blue Ligurian Sea on the other. With regular stone steps meandering straight down to the sea there were plenty of swimming spots.

And then we started spotting the Super Yacht’s in the distance. Holy moly, how many super yachts can you see? Oh and yes one had a helicopter of course. Completely mesmerised for the rest of our walk we took a zillion photos and watched the helicopter do a few practice laps.

After a refreshing swim and lunch on the beach we headed into Monte Carlo. Now as much as the water was absolutely beautiful it was extremely difficult to walk in over the pebbles once again. That is definitely one thing I am missing about home, our sandy beaches. Upon our initial arrival we saw all these trucks and tents and quite a few blocked off streets. Not knowing what was going on we soon noticed the signs everywhere advertising The Grand Prix. Well isn’t that a bonus and no wonder there are so many Super Yachts here. First Cannes film festival, next The Grand Prix. This year is the 80th Monaco Grand Prix and is the slowest and most difficult of all circuits in the Formula 1 world championship. We have one Aussie competing who is driving for McLaren, Oscar Piastri from Melbourne. You go Oscar!!! And speaking of McLarens, we saw many of them today oh and Mercedes G’s, I actually lost count of those. The money here is absolutely mind blowing. Finding a few sneaky spots to watch some practice laps finished off the day perfectly.

Show me the money Monaco!

Kilometres walked : 15

Flights climbed : 124

Tuesday 23rd May, 2023.

Another beautiful sunny day and another lovely hike in the Italian countryside with the family. Setting off from Apricale we headed off to a little village called Berzi up in the hills. With constantly changing terrain and foliage including a lovely creek we battled our way uphill through the heat to our destination. With a surprisingly large church as our backdrop we all enjoyed the views further up the hill to Bajardo whilst relaxing and eating our lunch.

Making it back to Apricale we headed down to the local creek for a swim under the bridge to cool off and sooth our muscles. (Even Lucy got in again!) It was a hot day but a fabulous walk. Thank you Apricale and Aunty & Uncle for having us, its been beautiful. Great walks, great company, great food and great wine! Chow…

Kilometres Walked : Sunday 10km, Monday 10km.

Floors Climbed : Monday – 104

Monday 22nd May, 2023.

Returning to Apricale with my cousin in tow after our brief sojourn to the French Riviera, we started off with a hike at Rocchetta Nirvina. Bringing the sunshine back with us it seemed like the perfect day for a little swim. All five of us piled into Uncle Ray’s little hire car and we headed off to the next valley. Once again we seemed to have stepped back in time with small stone houses tightly huddled together separated by arches, alleyways and vaults. Rocchetta Nirvina overlooks the waters of the Rio Barbara which has the clearest water we’ve seen yet. Setting off on the old mule track on the right side of the river our destination was Ponte Pau, a lovely old stone bridge further up the valley. With the sun beating down on us we were certainly going to enjoy a swim at the end.

After stopping for a bite to eat at Ponte Pau we headed a little further back to Ponte Cin for a swim. The water was absolutely crystal clear. What a beautiful place with cascading pools of water travelling down the valley. Only Jason jumped in here, but once we made it back to the village Lucy and I also had a swim. And it was fresh but extremely invigorating. What a fabulous day.

Kilometres Walked : Friday 14km, Saturday 18km.

Saturday 20th May, 2023.

With some drizzle about it was a nice slow start to the day yesterday. Then just before lunch we decided to walk up to the Matisse Museum. Well obviously everyone else thought to do the exact same thing! After a nice 45 minute stroll we arrived at the museum only stupidly expecting a small line up. What were we thinking? With a line up that was at least 2 hours long to gain entry we turned around and hotfooted it back to the old town. After lunch back at the apartment we decided to check out the Photography Museum which was just the next street over. With the current exhibition being by Lionel Kazan, a fashion photographer from the mid forties to the sixties we thought that might be up our alley. And it definitely was. Lionel had a fantastic eye and we were quite impressed with his photography. It’s no wonder his work graced the pages and covers of so many magazines. My favourite photo was one of Jane Fonda back when she was just 20. She is still as stunning today as she was back then.

More wandering through the colourful streets of Nice after that then a quiet night in. (I know it was a Friday night) Today we were much more prepared and walked to the Matisse Museum nice and early and were the second pair of people in line waiting for it to open. The building itself is beautiful with that lovely rust colour and the mint shutters but I have to say the actual Matisse pieces in the museum were not really my cup of tea. Quite frankly I thought it was a bit boring. Luckily there was another exhibition currently on display by Tom Wesselman an American Artist which we both really enjoyed. The colour in his works really stood out so the walk back to the Museum wasn’t a wasted one.

A little more strolling the streets and then a venture out after dark to see all the lights. What a pretty city Nice is. Even thought its been a bit drizzly we have thoroughly enjoyed wandering around. The colours here are just amazing as are the little alleyways, shop fronts, markets and of course the sea.

Merci beaucoup Nice, we have loved the French Riviera. We have also loved that for a big busy city it is super clean and the police presence on the streets does make it feel very safe. Au revoir!

Kilometres Walked : 14.5

Thursday 18th May, 2023.

With the sun showing itself, off we went first for a stroll around the daily markets just one street over from our little apartment. With plenty of fresh produce to choose from and olives, cheese, cured meats, honey and herbs we stocked up and dropped everything back at the apartment before embarking on a walk along the Promenade des Anglais. The Promenade des Anglais meaning “Walkway of the English” runs for 7kms along the beach in Nice. Constructed at the beginning of the 19th century it is one of the most famous walks on the Cote d’Azure.

Making our way through more colourful buildings, we hit the promenade along with hundreds of other people. It’s a popular spot for running, roller blading, walking and cycling with a big wide flat path. With beautiful big ornate and art deco buildings along one side and the long pebbly beach on the other one can understand why. Lots of visitors were sunbathing on the beach but not to many were swimming. And after watching the people who did try to walk into the water I decided I wasn’t going to swim either. It was rather amusing to watch people stumble and almost fall over trying to navigate the rather large pebbles on the beach. Jason included, he jumped in the water but I decided to keep my dignity and sat down to watch. But the colour of the water was beautiful and oh so clear. Such a shame it was difficult to get in it.

Finishing off the day on our little French balcony watching all people go by. Our favourite thing to do.

Kilometres walked : Tuesday – 5km, Wednesday 12.5 km.

Wednesday 17th May 2023.

Just a short stop over in France. Leaving the country behind today we caught the train to Nice for a few days by the seaside. And what a pretty place it is. With a full fan deck of colours across all the buildings I can definitely see another million photos being taken. This afternoon’s exploration was up around the port ogling at all the super yachts. Mmm there sure is some money in that harbour. Lots of pretty colours again on the lovely little wooden boats that are more within our budget I think and is probably more our style as well.

More exploration tomorrow and hopefully some more sunshine so we can jump in the sea again. Trying very hard to remember our school French as well. So far so good! “Bonne nuit”